Life has been puttering along with all it’s trials and challenges. Work has kept me from going on the road trips I generally go on this time of year. And as glum as I have been at seeing all my friends rave about what a good time they are having in destinations all around the country it has somehow not been all bad. It’s interesting when a home crag captivates you so much that the distant hills are no longer greener. And there have been a few highlights along the way.
I have been slowly adding some creature comforts to my “drilling kit”.
Yes, that is an iPod and a trowel you see hidden amongst the Jumar and brush clutter. This morning was a prime example of a
gardening bolting mission where that came in handy. Huge sods of dirt rained down the crag as I hacked away at the sand bank that looms over my latest route. The iPod is becoming as essential as the jumar. There is nothing quite like having The Glitch Mob egg you on at 6 o’ clock in the morning as you wield a power tool while dangling off a cliff. It’s also handy at muffling out the noise of the drill.
I had a funny little misadventure the other morning on my way to bolt. I was stomping through the sugar cane before the sun had risen when suddenly something came stomping right back at me. My first thought was that it was a wild boar and I was in serious danger. My second thought was that it was a porcupine* and I was in some danger. I backed away in disbelief as it headed straight for me, veering off at the last second to carry on crashing through the bushes behind me.
And just as unbelievable to me is that I have yet to blog about my send of Enterprise. It was one of those sends that are so elegant that you bask in the success of it long afterwards. Yes, Enterprise. That gorgeous beast of a route that had me stuck on it for longer than I would like to admit. Although it is one of those routes that you don’t mind being stuck on for a while because every attempt is pure joy. Yet, I was frustrated that the move that nobody else considered a move was shutting me down. True, I couldn’t reach the hold using the drop knee beta that apparently made it child’s’ play. Instead I was using a horrible little nubbin and boosting to a slot. But I could stick it fresh every time. What a silly place to come off. Then one day I was let in on the secret of the hands-free rest that everyone else knew about and suddenly the game was afoot. The goal was attainable. And in the meantime I had gotten fit enough to give the painfully pumpy moves at the end of the route a serious go.
The day finally arrived when everything came together. My beta was refined, my body and mind were fresh and keen and the conditions were better than they had been all summer. I suddenly found myself on the final crux move, serene and un-pumped. What had been a bar fight for so long was now a gentle stroll with time to shake out and feel the cool wind rustle my hair before I placed the final heel above my head and nimbly work my way up the side pull to the final clipping hold. I had barely even grunted. It always amazes me how a route can go from feeling impossible to a doddle in such a short space of time.
And thanks to the fitness on Enterprise, Star Date went down a mere week later. Sometimes being home is not so bad.
* and holy cow, are they supposed to be that large?